In Zanzibar, dawn and dusk are often the best parts of the day. One of my favourite places to be at dusk is Forodhani gardens on the waterfront in Stone town. They lie in front of the House of Wonders and the Old Fort.
It’s always been a place where the local boys cool off after a hot day. They gather and show their prowess at leaping off the seawall with cartwheels, somersaults or running leaps into the, sometimes, not so deep water.
At sunset a food market begins and people gather to wander and select from the large array of local Zanzibar foods. Once the food market was simply a small gathering of shabby stalls set up on makeshift tables or served from the basket on the back of a bicycle. We’d cycle down there and get a bowl of ‘mixi’ for a few shillings then sit on a small wall or in the dusty grass. Now, since the Aga Khan paid to restore them to what must have been there formal splendour in the days of the Sultans, they are more elaborate and the food stalls have table cloths and the grass is no longer a place to walk or sit on. It’s still very lovely though.